We only entered GMBB because it was scorching outside, and, as we passed, a blast of cold air-conditioning rushed out, grabbed us, and scooped us in. At first, we thought it was just an office building, but we quickly realized we had stumbled upon something truly wonderful. Level after level, this building is filled with artisans, artists, and independent stores. One could, as we did, spend hours here, buy all the souvenirs (and birthday or Christmas presents, all supporting local businesses) you need, and enjoy some fantastic food. There are bookstores, music stores, and more.

Go up the escalator on each level and explore the entire floor, pausing at whatever shops catch your eye. You can continue this for hours, ascending level by level. Scattered throughout are small cafés and stores serving sweets, coffee, and mealsto keep you fueled. Our favourite was Jiak Kopi on the first floor.

This café feels like visiting a friend’s house, a very cool friend who also happens to make amazing food. The “friends” in this case are cousins Cherrie Loh and Tommy Low, who opened this popular café shortly after COVID. They are known for their coffee, which they roast and brew themselves. We also ordered the Malaysian chocolate drink, Milo. Despite having had dozens of Milo drinks (an Australian cocoa-based powdered drink) on this trip, this one stood out. Perhaps it was Cherrie’s touch, the atmosphere, or just our mood. According to one article, it might be their ice cubes, specially shaped so they melt slowly and don’t dilute the drink.

After a short chat with the staff, we learned that the must-try dish here is the nasi lemak, which ended up being our favourite of the entire trip (and we had quite a few!). The spicy homemade sambal was incredible. Frankly, it was good that we discovered this building and café on our last day; if we had found it earlier, we might have spent more time here and less time exploring Kuala Lumpur.

Jiak Kopi, 2, Jalan Robertson, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Open daily: 11:00 am – 8:00 pm www.gmbb.com.my

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The food in Kuala Lumpur is incredible. Forget sightseeing, tours, and tourist attractions for a moment, just plan your meals. You’ll want to eat more than three times a day, so space your destinations a bit apart to give yourself time to walk and burn off the previous meal before diving into the next.

Don’t skip breakfast, it’s one of the most interesting meals of the day here. In Kuala Lumpur, you can eat almost anything for breakfast: noodles? Sure. Dumplings? Of course. But there are a few classics you shouldn’t miss:

• Soft-boiled eggs, cracked into a bowl with a dash of pepper and soy sauce.
• Toast with butter and kaya, a coconut-pandan jam whose texture and flavour vary depending on where you go.
• Beverages: tea or coffee, both traditionally sweetened with condensed milk.

If you’re with family or friends, bring them along. It’s a lot to order on your own, though no one will judge if you do.

In Chinatown, there are a few spots serving this fantastic breakfast, which you can enjoy at any time of the day or even in the evening. One, Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam, is an Instagram favourite, often with a line of young people and tripods stretching down the block. Another, the one we chose, Kafei Dian, has no line but is full of locals. Ordering is easy: use the app, then pay at the counter when you leave. Be sure to pick up their homemade kaya jam before you go, one of the best we had on this trip.

The hot chocolate is actually a hot, or cold Milo, which is to be expected in Malaysia. Sure, Milo is a beloved chocolate drink here (though it’s actually Australian, not Malaysian, try telling the locals that…). But Malaysians do have access to far better chocolate, if you know where to look. Two words: Chocolate Concierge. But then again, when in KL…

Kaffei Dian, 16, Jalan Panggong, City Centre, Kuala Lumpur. Open 7:30am to 10pm daily. @kafeidian_petalingstreet

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There’s an Italian gelato store right in the centre of Chinatown Kuala Lumpur. It feels completely random, but in the heat, incredibly welcome.

The flavours lean heavily Italian, with just a few local twists, including a durian gelato. The chocolate is made using Valrhona, and that same chocolate is used for their ultra-rich drinking chocolate.

I ordered the hot chocolate, and it was undeniably decadent. But in this kind of heat and humidity, even in an air-conditioned café, seated on benches designed to look like giant blocks of ice, it’s hard to justify. I’d much rather have the frozen version. The chocolate gelato is equally decadent. Either way, you’ll be satisfied.

Gioia Gelato
No. 16, Jalan Balai Polis, City Centre
50000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Daily: 12:00pm – 10:00pm, @gioiagelato

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Central Market Kuala Lumpur sits in the middle of Chinatown Kuala Lumpur. It’s immediately clear that this is a place with history, though one that has recently been given a fresh coat of paint. It began in 1888 as a wet market selling fresh produce and fish. The Art Deco façade you see today dates back to 1937. Over time, the market fell into decline and was nearly demolished as part of urban redevelopment. Fortunately, it was saved. Today, it houses a mix of long-standing stalls layered alongside newer vendors. There’s food and trinkets everywhere, and right in the middle of it all, somewhat unexpectedly, is a hot chocolate.

Most visitors to Central Market likely have no idea they have the chance to experience Malaysian-grown cacao right here in the centre of the city. Few cities in the world have this, and it is truly exciting. The stall from Kakao Origin is one of the first you’ll see upon entering. The ordering process is structured. First, you choose your chocolate: white, milk, or one of several single-origin dark chocolates ranging from 71% to 82%. These are made from beans sourced from different regions across Malaysia, including Chemor, Semai, Triang, Pengkalan Hulu, and Kuala Lipis. On this visit, only one Chemor option was available.

Next, you choose your temperature (hot or cold) and size (small or large). The drinks are milk-based, with a choice of milk, and you can add a range of spices, some free, others for a small fee, such as black pepper, turmeric, pandan, vanilla, or banana. Unlike the carefully styled images on their Instagram, takeaway paper cups are the only option. There are a few seats where you can sit down and enjoy your drink. We found the drinks to be very weak, so it is hard to comment on the flavour or quality of the chocolate. They also didn’t have any of their chocolates open for tasting, so I can’t really comment on the chocolate itself.

The stall itself was calm, and we were keen for a chat, but the woman serving us stayed on her phone throughout and wasn’t up for a chat. A few bars were available for sale, but none of the plain single-origin varieties, which was disappointing, as we were ready to buy. If you are a tourist and are looking to bring home some Malaysian flavours, their bars that mix Malaysian cacao with Malaysian flavours such as panda and durian would be a great present, for yourself or someone else. It feels like a story worth telling, with a captive audience right there. They could do so much with this space!

After your drink, you are not short on things to do in the area. After exploring Central Market, walk straight through to the other side and directly in front of the exit outside is a place where you can try your hand at batiq painting. Turn left and you will reach the River of Life where the Klang River and Gombak River meet.

Kakao Origin
Central Market, Kuala Lumpur
Daily: 10:00am – 10:00pm https://www.kakaorigin.com

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How anyone finds this little street of cafés and restaurants is beyond me. The locals must just know. Google Mapscertainly does. But getting here is another matter. It’s not close to anything, and the walk in (and out) does nothing to hint at how vibrant Kuala Lumpur really is. Still, if you’re willing to brave a few minutes along busy roads, the reward is worth it. The bakery feels like an oasis, tucked into overgrown greenery, as if you’ve stumbled upon an abandoned jungle house, only inside are immaculate pastries and beautifully plated breakfasts. Think American pancakes or Aussie avocado on toast, done with care.

The interior is effortlessly beautiful. The kind of space that feels organic and unforced, yet clearly shaped by countless deliberate decisions. Even the sleeping cat outside, perched on a shelf, seems part of the design—and may well be the most popular attraction.

The chocolate and the pain au chocolat are both worth the walk. But come here only after you’ve had your fill of Malaysian food and are craving something different. Because as good as they are, nothing here beats the local cuisine. I’m salivating just thinking about it. The hot chocolate is made with Callebaut, likely the same used in the pastries. It’s classic, comforting, and crowd-pleasing, best enjoyed alongside something flaky and indulgent.

Once you’re done, don’t linger, the surrounding area isn’t much to explore. Instead, head towards Chinatown  or make your way to Jalan Alor Food Street. It’s about a 10-minute walk, and from there you’re in the heart of the city’s eating and shopping scene, the perfect start (or continuation) of a great day.

Broom at Bukit Bintang
4, Jin Sin Chew Kee, Bukit Bintang, KL

Open Monday to Thursday: 8:30am–5:30pm
Friday to Sunday: 8:30am–10:00pm

Instagram: @broomartisanbakery

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Tucked away in a residential area of Kuala Lumpur, on a short street lined with quaint restaurants, is Kedai Coklat. This chocolate café, owned by CocoRaw Chocolates, serves a variety of drinks, pastries, and cakes featuring chocolate. CocoRaw started in 2016, though their website provides little additional information. At first, we assumed it was a raw chocolate maker, but instead it seems they are chocolatiers using chocolate to create a range of inventive treats. There are some reference on instagram to Malaysian grown cacao, but it wasn’t clear what kind of chocolate they use.

Kedai Coklat’s creations look stunning. One of their fun creations is Roti Kaya: a chocolate bar with kaya (coconut-pandan jam) served on crunchy sourdough toast. They also make several nama-style chocolates flavouring local ingredients, such as teh tarik. Occasionally, they sell moon pies, two chocolate cookies sandwiching marshmallow, all coated in chocolate, which look delicious.

When we visited late in the day, the display case was nearly empty. We did order several hot chocolates. Unfortunately, it really needed more chocolate, in my opinion, it was too watered down. If they make a hot chocolate with the same gusto they put into their beautiful desserts, this place would be a winner!

Bangsar, once a rubber plantation area, is now a trendy residential neighbourhood. The Bangsar Sunday Market, which we unfortunately missed, sounds like a highlight worth adding to your itinerary. To get there, take the Kelana Jaya Line to Jalan Bangsar LRT station; from there, it’s roughly a 10-minute walk through a residential area. Nearby, despite its unusual name, the WTF Restaurant next door comes highly recommended by some local residents. Just across the metro line is Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur’s “Little India,” full of Indian restaurants and shops.

Kedai Coklat, 78, Lorong Maarof, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur. Open Tuesday to Sunday 12:30pm to 10:30pm. Closed Mondays https://www.cocoraw.me

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What are we sipping today?

Ning: 100% Malaysian cocoa, whisked with hot water, with a touch of salt and freshly grated cinnamon.

So, why chocolate?

Ning: I didn’t start with chocolate, I found my calling in it. I spent about 10 years abroad studying physics and computer science, then working in tech, but I was always drawn to fermentation. There’s something magical about it, the scents, the transformation, the way it feels alive yet almost programmable. It sits between controlled chaos and rhythm.

When I returned to Malaysia, I started brewing, aging cheeses, and tasting coffee and chocolate. Then I realized I could experience single-origin chocolate from all over the world, but not from Malaysia. I kept asking myself, “Why?” That question has guided me ever since.

And that question led to Chocolate Concierge—how did it begin?

Ning: It began with a simple desire: to taste Malaysian cacao. I started seeking out local beans, and more than a decade later, I’m still on that same path.

We focus entirely on Malaysian cacao, not because other origins aren’t beautiful, but because Malaysia’s story is rarely told. With our single-origin bars, we take a very light-touch approach so the cacao can express itself fully. Each region has its own personality; some are bright and fruity, others nutty or floral. We don’t want to blend that away.

We also work closely with farmers and indigenous communities. When we name a bar after a community, it’s not marketing, it’s recognition. And sustainability is core to what we do: agroforestry, biodiversity, fair pricing, long-term relationships. Chocolate, to us, begins with the land.

What do you wish more people understood about Malaysian cacao?

Ning: How diverse it is. Malaysia’s tropical landscape, its soils, elevations, and microclimates, creates a wide range of flavour profiles. It’s not one identity, but many voices.

I also wish people understood the level of craft involved. From growing and harvesting to fermentation, small decisions can have a huge impact on flavour. We’ve even conducted research into fermentation methods to improve both taste and nutritional qualities.

Most of all, Malaysian cacao doesn’t need to imitate other origins. It stands on its own. When someone tastes it for the first time and pauses, surprised. That moment means everything.

Your packaging is beautiful—what’s the idea behind it?

Ning: Each bar features a cacao pod from its origin. It’s a reminder that chocolate is grown, not just made.

Many people never get to see cacao pods in their natural variety of shapes and colours, so I wanted to use the bar itself as a canvas to show that. It’s not always a conventional choice, but it’s intentional. We’re celebrating the diversity of Malaysian cacao.

If someone could try just one thing from Chocolate Concierge, what would you recommend?

Ning: I would start with drinking chocolate, or even cacao tea. Before chocolate became bars or confections, it was a drink. There’s something deeply grounding about holding a warm cup and experiencing cacao in its purest form.

Our drinking chocolate is just cacao and hot water, no sugar or dairy, so nothing masks the flavour. It’s thick, silky, and meant to be sipped slowly. Cacao tea, made from the husk, is lighter but surprisingly complex, with notes like honey and toasted grains.

Starting with a beverage changes the experience. It moves chocolate from being just a treat into something more, a ritual, a moment to slow down and connect.

To read my blog post on the fantastic hot chocolate at Chocolate Concierge, visit

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Before you read this looking for a great hot chocolate, there was none. My title is misleading. They have Milo iced. If you have read any other of my Malaysian posts, you will see that there is a lot of Milo iced in Malaysia. It will not satisfy you if you are are in need of a chocolate fix. 

But the food at Yash Banana Leaf Restoran will help console you, a lot. In fact, you will forget all about your cravings for chocolate. It was amazing. If you haven’t tried a banana leaf experience, it is definitely worth a try. Traditionally from southern India, when Indian migrants arrive in Malaysia in the 19th and 20th centuries, they brought their food culture with them. Serving hearty meals on banana leaves became a practical and affordable way to eat. Today they are popular wth all Malaysians, not just those with Indian backgrounds. 

Order the banana leaf set and you will be served a variety of curries, vegetables, pickles, and sauces placed directly on your fresh banana leaf. Use your hand (right), a fork, or papadums to mix the rice and curries. When you are done eating, fold over the banana leaf in half inwards to signify that you thoroughly enjoyed it and will be back. 

When you are done your lunch, there are several beautiful markets in and around Ipoh selling local fruits and vegetables. The region is famous for its strawberries which although aren’t native to the region, are quite tasty.

Verdict: And order the mango lassi instead of the hot chocolate. Your welcome. Yash Banana Leaf Restoran, No. 52, Jalan Besar, Tanah Rata, Pahang, Malaysia Open daily fro 7am to 10pm @yashbananaleaf

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When in Malaysia, one drinks Milo iced. Unfortunately. I say unfortunately because there is cacao in Malaysia, and great chocolate in Malaysia. But sipping it isn’t popular. They don’t know what they are missing. This meant that my trip to Malaysia was a mix of really amazing, single origin, locally sourced hot chocolates and Milo iced and not much in between. 

While cacao does grow near Cameron Highlands, the thing to do is visit tea plantations, of which there are many, all stunning. Tea is not native to the region. It is the British colonists who, in the early 20th century, decided to cultivate it. They found the climate to be similar to India and Sri Lanka, with cool temperatures and acidic soil. We visited a few of the larger plantations, including Cameron Valley Tea House and the much busier BOH Tea Centre. While the cafe is calmer at Cameron Valley Tea House, BOH Tea Centre offers tours that show how the tea is picked and processed. Unfortunately known were on offer the day we visited, but I’d recommend sipping tea there instead if the tours are on offer.

The thing to do after walking amongst the tea plants is to sip and buy their tea on one the terraces with views of the fields. 

I thought it would be a great idea to have a chocolate, made with locally grown cacao, mixed with the local tea, available to enjoy at the cafes attached to the different tea plantations. To sip this while taking in the views would be such a memorable moment. Obviously, I was living in a parallel universe where chocolate is also at the centre of everyone else’s minds. Since this wasn’t on offer, we created our own, mixing a bit of my tea into a bit of the kid’s hot Milo drink. I wouldn’t recommend doing this (but did look good for the photo, at least). It was pretty terrible. I admit that by this point in time I had consumed quite a lot of tea and that, just maybe, the caffeine, or even all the sugar in the condensed milk added to the tea, which I am not used to, had gone a little to my head. We put the drink aside, and whipped out my secret stash of Chocolate Concierge’s Malaysian chocolate using beans from the region which paired nicely with the rest of tea that I hadn’t messed up by mixing it with Milo. Perfect enough. 

Verdict: Order the tea, bring your own chocolate, and enjoy the pairing with the view. For those looking for a cacao fix, the nearby Lata Iskandar waterfalls has a small fruit and vegetable market where you can buy fresh cacao pods (and they are delicious).

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