I left the best for last. It’s raining this morning and I’m flying out of Turin in a few hours. But first, I present to you the Bicerin.
In 1763, Giuseppe Denis opened a small shop in a building opposite Sanctuary of the Consolata. The building was renovated in 1865 and transformed from a small modest café to a still tiny one but now with embellished wooden panelling decorated with mirrors and lamps. Patrons would sip their drinks on small round white marble tables. When they went up to pay at the far end of the café, they would be tempted by the glass shelves lined with jars of colourful confectionaries. That’s still what it looks like today.
While many cafes in Turin serve Bicerin, this is arguably the most famous spot to try it. The Bicerin wasn’t invented here. According to the Caffe’s website it was an evaluation of an 18th century drink called the Bavareisa that was served in large glasses and made mixing coffee, chocolate, milk, and syrup. In the early 19th century these three ingredients began to be served separately into a single cup to make three distinct and visible layers. In part what helped the Bicerin at this café become more famous was thanks to its location across from the Sanctuary. Hot chocolate was not considered food so it was popular during Lent and many faithful would pass by to enjoy it as a quick pick me up.
While originally the café was run by men and exclusively frequented by men, management at one point fell into the hands of women and its unique position in front of the church made it popular with women. For many years it was one of the few places where women could be seen on their own in public. From 1917 until 2015 it was still managed by the women in the family.
The chocolate used is from Ivory Coast, Ghana, Cameroon, Brazil and Indonesia and is cooked slowly in special copper pots. To make the Bicerin a shot of coffee is added to the bottom of tall glass, then a generous layer of hot chocolate, topped with a layer of cream. You can order a Bicerin with “biscotti misti”, a selection of biscuits to dunk into your drink. If for some reason you decide not to try their Bicerin, or the more likely story, visit more than once, they also have a cioccolata in Tazza with or without panna (whipping cream). They serve their own chocolate liquor. Another option is the Gli Zabajoni made with egg yolks and sugar whipped up by hand and flavoured with Marsala, lemon, Ratafia or Passito di Caluso.
This morning the café is busy. There are seven tables, each with a small candle and all filled. The space is so small it almost feels like you are at someone’s house. This morning many neighbours have met up for their daily discussions about whatever is reported on the front page of La Stampa newspaper. A man opens the front door and yells “Bicerin al volo” (Bicerin to go but really that translates to flying Bicerin which sounds so much cooler). The woman who serves me my Bicerin looks at me in the eyes and says “no lo miscole” which means don’t mix it, just sip. I didn’t dare disobey these important orders.
I don’t drink coffee. Apart from Tiramisu, I have never really had coffee. I’m glad my first coffee experience was a Bicerin. I skipped all the way back to my hotel. Coffee is strong stuff you guys, not sure how you can drink multiple cups of it a day. I’d do it for more Bicerin though.
Verdict: Yes please. Caffe Al Bicerin, Piazza della Consolata 5, Turin, Italy
