Note to start: This story was written up based on my experiences from a trip I made here in a pre COVID world (remember that?). Most are still open, with restrictions, but it is best to visit their website for up to date information. I think we all need a bit of arm chair travelling at the moment so I thought I’d still share these to inspire current hot chocolates at home and future trips. Enjoy!
The first thing you should do when you arrive in Amsterdam is to walk away from the train station, far away. Cross some bridges and just get lost a little. Amsterdam, and its beautiful network of canals, is a maze of laneways lined with interesting shops, bridges, cafes and bars, many covered with tiny gardens and burst of street art. You don’t have to walk very far to get to what was one of my favourite hot chocolate stops (of many) in Amsterdam: Pampadour.
Pampadour is a very busy little teashop. It has displays filled with pastries and perfect little desserts in the front and then a few tables up a small set of stairs for visitors to enjoy them. There was a crowd of tourists waiting to get a seat and the staff had lost their patience with them. Given how people were acting I’m not surprised. Tourists were almost demanding a seat (in English) even when there were none to offer. Even though there was no line, the staff were well aware of who had arrived first and were constantly having to stop newcomers from just walking up the stairs and seating themselves, which most tourists just could not understand, or were refusing to.
The cafe seems to be named after Madam de Pompadour, the chief mistress of Louis XV, who was, as most were at the time, a huge fan of chocolate. The café itself looks like an authentic tea room from this time. The walls are covered with red and gold wallpaper. The paneling of this shop was cut for the town hall of Mortsel in 1895 and then, 75 years later reused here. It is the kind of shop you would go to even if it had bad hot chocolates and pastries because it is so decadent looking, except its pastries and hot chocolates are very good.
Luckily I was seated quickly but I did have to share my table because it was busy: with a 5 year old who was part of the group sitting next to me. I would never think of sitting my 5 year old with the stranger and sharing a table with my partner but hey, maybe I should do that myself next time. We chatted for a bit, the 5 year old and I, until he tried to steal part of my cake. That was the end of our short lived friendship. I know 5 year olds so I dealt with the situation while the parents chatted as if they were alone in the world. I should have asked them to pay for my drink; cheap babysitting fee.
The hot chocolate was very rich and delicious, an occasional treat worth waiting for. It had a smokey, slightly bitter taste and was a richer consistency than most of the hot chocolates I had in the Netherlands. They use Valrhona chocolate in their drinks and pastries. It was accompanied by a little sticky cake which was tiny but delicious. I should have ordered one (or two) of their stunning desserts but didn’t so please do if you have the chance.
Verdict: My unexpected date with someone else’s 5 year old went well enough. The cakes are and the hot chocolate is definitely worth the wait. Pompadour, Huidenstraat 12, Amsterdam
