There is a lot of talk about the Alps, but they aren’t the only mountains in Europe. While the snowy peaks of the Alps are impressive, I’d steer you east instead, towards the Dolomites in Italy. The quiet (at least in autumn) twisty roads wind their way up and down the mountains, through picture perfect towns and fields of wandering cows with bells tied around their necks that clank as they walk. The weather changes quickly, from warm and sunny to cool, cloudy and rainy at almost every turn.
Whether it is summer or winter, the gondolas are open everyday to take visitors up to the very top of the mountains. Because of the constantly changing weather in the Dolomites, plan to make your way up the mountains first thing in the morning, or, even better, see if you can stay for the night in one of the refuges at the top of the mountain. You will be rewarded with sunset drinks and breakfast sunrises. We planned to take the very first gondola up and kept our fingers and toes crossed the whole way up, hoping that the clouds would stay away and gift us with stunning views. We got our views on the way up, but once at the top, we were walking in the clouds.
Luckily Friedrich August is easy to find. It’s light just a short walk from the gondola station is like a beacon in the fog and once you step in the front door it is warm and cosy and dry. Dogs are allowed inside, and several tables have well behaved puppies napping under tables, strangely uninterested in the delicious treats being served on top of the tables.
While here, the thing to order is the krapfen alla crema for 3 euros. It is a donut filled with cream, the perfect pairing for their hot chocolate (8 euros) which is quite basic, made with a sweetened cocoa powder mix but elevated substantially with the addition of panna (whipped cream), rum (if you are so inclined) or even both and then elevated even further by being delivered by a waitress in traditional dress.
After our drinks and snacks we get some cuddles with Gus the husky seated at (or rather under) the next table and then take a look around the café/resturant which is filled with little nooks and crannies celebrating the region. Outside, the piece de resistance, are several yaks and highland cows, all very friendly and photogenic. Definitely a highlight of our time in the Dolomites.
Rifugio Friedrich August, Locality Col Rodella, Passo Sella, Canazei, Italy www.friedrichaugust.it @rifugio_friedrich_august
