My favourite Sunday morning activity is to visit the Marché Bastille. Oysters, cheese, bread, tea towels, very, very good churros, this market has everything. After you’ve had your fill, walk over to Boulevard Beaumarchais, then continue along Rue du Pas de la Mule to Place des Vosges. Linger at Place des Vosges for a few minutes. One of the city’s most beautiful squares, it is also the older planned square in the city build in the early 1600s. It’s perfectly symmetrical. Sit on the grass for a few moments to take it all in (if you are allowed, often the block off the grass to let it “rest”). When you are ready, keep going straight as the street becomes Rue des Francs Bourgeois and then turn right on Rue Pavée. That’s when it’s time to stop for a hot chocolate, and a few chocolates at Petite Manufacture Cluizel.
The little shop feels like stepping into a small, deeply personal luxury boutique, but still feels relaxing and approachable. Behind the counter, the chocolatier slips on a pair of immaculate white gloves before carefully arranging the expertly crafted enrobed chocolates into large display cases. He treats us like regulars, even though it is our first time meeting him. He has found the perfect balance between allowing us to browse in silence and volunteering interesting information about the chocolates.
While he prepares our hot chocolates, we explore the range of chocolates on offer. There are bars made with beans from the Los Ancones cocoa plantation in the Dominican Republic, another from São Tomé, and many more origins besides. The enrobed chocolates are exquisite, and even the added flavours are thoughtfully sourced: honey from Lorraine, coffee from Mexico.
We leave with a few treats to take home too — a tin of chocolate sardines (thankfully only shaped like sardines), marshmallow bears dipped in chocolate (a necessity when in Paris), and mushroom-shaped chocolate caramels that are almost too beautiful to eat.
When you are ready, take your chocolate filled bags and walk back up to Rue des Francs-Bougeois and continue along it. This road, which eventually brings you to the vibrant 2nd arrondissement, is lively and full of interesting shops and hidden courtyards.
This particular location of Cluizel has since, sadly, closed. But Cluizel chocolate is sold in many other stores around Paris (including the chocolate hall at Galleria Lafayettes). If you have time, visit The Chocolaterium at 7 Avenue Michel Cluizel about 2 hours away from Paris in Mesnils Sur Iton for the full Cluizel experience.
