“Bad” hot chocolate in Japan isn’t as bad as inother countries. You know, the fallback hot chocolate, the one that cafés put on menus because they need to have a hot chocolate, but really don’t care much more than that. It is always a very highly sweetened powder and most often served in a paper cup, just like this one at the visitor center at Beppu Hells.
However, the “bad” hot chocolates in Japan were never as bad as other countries I’ve been to. And I don’t think this is just because I love Japan so much. For one, they aren’t nearly as sweet. And this makes a huge difference. It’s drinkable, and you can almost taste the cocoa powder. Second, there is often something delicious to have with your hot chocolate. It seems in Japan, drinks are never enjoyed alone. There is always a pickle, sauce, or in this case, a hard-boiled egg cooked in the steam of Beppu’s colourful geothermal hot springs.
Also called Beppu Hells, there are a collection of half a dozen of these springs scattered about town, and some very smart businessperson has turned them each into separate attractions that you need to pay separate entrance fees for. Despite the enormous crowds, they are stunning, each one a different colour. The Umi Jigoku is an almost unreal cobalt-blue while the Chinoike Jigoku is a vivid red. We visited 4 and then felt like we had our fill.
Beppu is a special place. Take an evening stroll through the center of town and you see the steam escaping, sometimes violently, from nooks and cracks in the pavement. The entire place is geologically alive. Since everyone else is busy relaxing in the onsens that make this city famous, you’ll get this magical show all to yourself. Once you have finished walking, have dinner at Oono. Theres little English spoken, but it hardly matters when everything arriving at the table is delicious. If you feel like dessert after, do like the locals and visit 711 for some unique, often chocolate filled, sweets.
